It comes in three separate parts that glue
Prep and lay a special vinyl sill pan over the flashing. Clean the joint overlaps with PVC cleaner, then lay the parts in place and weld the seams with PVC cement. Before you begin flashing, check the floor for level. In rare situations, the floor under the door will be out of level. Sweep the floor free of debris and check it with a straight board and a 4-ft. level. If it’s within 1/4 in. of level over the 6-ft. opening, let it be; the door should still slide smoothly. But correct larger variations with two long, business tapered shims placed directly under the sill (use treated wood on concrete). Fill any voids with polyurethane caulk to keep out drafts. Then proceed with the flashing.
Begin
flashing at the bottom. Apply flexible flashing directly under the doorsill and
2 in. up the sides (Photo 6). Flexible flashing comes in 4- to 6-in.-wide rolls
and has a sticky side so it adheres to the underlying surfaces. It’s thick and
seals around fasteners that are driven through it. It’s imperative that the
flashing laps well over any deck flashing or weather barrier below the door
(Photo 6). You may have to overlap two rows, as we did, to get the necessary
coverage. Pros will usually rest the new doorsill (caulked) directly on the
flashing, but for further protection in wet locations (rain will splash against
the door bottom from all angles), add a “sill pan” as well (Photo 7). We chose
a Jamsill Guard. It comes in three separate parts that glue together with PVC
cement. Next apply to flash over any building paper, house wrap or sheathing
along the sides and fold it around the door frame opening. We couldn’t work the
sticky flashing behind the vinyl trim, so we tucked No. 15 roofing felt about 2
in. under it instead.
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